Summer's Doormats

                     

The summer flounders /flukes, a few as big a nine pounds, are more numerous than many Montauk captains can remember and are biting on worms with a vulgar gusto. If you like to eat a very fine and firm white-fleshed fish (which the Old French used to dismiss as “of medium quality, but not without merit”) then the flounder/fluke (there is no difference between them except monikers)  is well worth hauling in. The six-to-nine pounders are called “doormats” around Montauk, and in Europe they are known as “plaice.” They are flat, diamond-shaped with rounded corners and both eyes set on the top left side of their head. The underside is white.

Flounder/fluke is best eaten the day it is caught, or the hour, if possible. It is relatively easy to bone, or if cooked whole to cut into slices. They can be poached whole or filleted in a court-bouillon of water, milk, salt and lemon slices, drained and garnished with fresh-cut parsley and chives, and traditionally served with plain, boiled Long Island potatoes with butter and parsley in a separate dish. If you are up to create a good sauce, don’t be shy about employing everything and anything in the herb garden, and if you have some first-rate curry powder, use it. Fluke/flounder are perfect for Indian spices.  Baked until flakey with salt, ground black pepper, tomatoes, herbs and onions they are luscious. Gently grilled with a brushing of Gaucho Green Chimmi-Churri sauce and a little olive oil, fresh flounder/fluke are delicious.