Eating out in Montauk

West Lake Clam & Chowder House

(631) 668-6252

382 W Lake Dr
Montauk, NY 11954

It is almost an act of self-inflicted torture to reveal the name of the best restaurant kitchen in Montauk because after many, many years the place is still something of a secret kept among the hamlet’s cognocenti, as yet unknown to the bulk of tourists and more or less safe from all but the most intrepid Hamptonites.

Over the years, only a few nods to technology have been tolerated in the kitchen or bar, but the maitre de’s stand has been infinitely improved by the arrival of small plastic lobsters that shiver and light up with blinking red lights when your table is ready. Children and mellow drinkers love them.

The ten-seat inside bar is beautifully tended, and when one asks for a green apple martini or a clam juice virgin Mary or something very dirty with five olives in it, one can expect to get a well crafted drink, at the right temperature, vigorously stirred, but not shaken, and the prices are about $10 with a tip. Wine and even champagne is available.
To watch Clam & Chowder House bartenders tend bar is like watching the Alvin Ailey dancers dance: precise, coolly passionate, unfussy and fast. There is a lot of similarity between the Clam & Chowder House bar and the famous Floridita in Havana, where Ernest Hemingway drank. A lot of truth in the conversations, and a lot of fish stories, too.
There is a very good sushi bar at the Clam & Chowder with sushi makers who are oriental experts in the discipline. Since Clam & Chowder is a part of the marina’s fishing boat docks, the sushi masters work with some of the freshest seafood it is possible to get under a knife anywhere. Almost every offering is a unique pleasure, especially the deep fried soft shell crab roll.

The main menu, served at the bar or on wooden tables inside and wrought iron tables under umbrellas outside, includes local seafood, beef steaks, chicken, salads and desserts ~ much of it cooked in ways that exceed most expectations for flavor and presentation, with flavor taking precedence. The prices are well within reason and the service is adept, intelligent and funny, without pushing the point. If you are lucky enough to get a cake baked by the chef’s wife, you are in great luck.
For safety’s sake, a few observations:

Turn off your cell phones on the premises, and if you must flaunt your Blackberry or iPhone in public, take it outside. Cell phone addicts who talk on their cell at the tables or the bars have been tongue lashed near unto death by fellow customers. It is a lovely sight to see.

Be patient if you and your party are in line for a table. Credentials, crustiness and sarcasm get nowhere in a place where there are no pampered customers or sacred cows. Be a pest and you’ll be treated as a pest, with a firm and unbeatable disdain. The prettiest time to dine on summer evenings is from 5:30 until about 7, when the after-dark diners are just leaving the beach.


Tell nobody about Clam & Chowder ~ except those you love ~ or the lines will grow far too long.